One-hundred forty-five years ago, York was a town in crisis. Over 6,000 battle hardened Confederates occupied York on June 28, 29, and 30, 1863.

Today, many of the buildings from that era remain. Here's a quick guide to some of those buildings, adapted from my book, "Civil War Walking Tour of York, Pennsylvania," available from the Museum Shop of the York County Heritage Trust:

Historical Society Museum
250 East Market Street

A great place to begin your tour. Check out "The Civil War Comes to York County" exhibit, see original Lewis Miller prints, and find the latest in Civil War book offerings at the Museum Shop.

Michael P. Small House
249 East Market Street

Today the Schintz Studio, this building was once home to General Small, who issued provisions to Lee's defeated army at Appomattox.

Charles Billmeyer House
225 East Market Street

Billmeyer was a partner in the Billmeyer and Small Co., manufacturers of railroad cars. Confederate General Jubal Early threatened to burn their car shops.

David E. Small House
153 East Market Street

Also known as Martin Library's Brownstone. Small was the other half of the Billmeyer and Small partnership. He also served on the Committee of Safety that negotiated the occupation of York with Confederate General Jubal Early.

Bonham House
152 East Market Street

Headquarters for the York County Heritage Trust's Victorian and Civil War Living History Program. Bonham was an artist and attorney. During the Civil War, he served as revenue assessor, appointed by Abraham Lincoln.

Judge Fisher House
124 East Market Street

Judge Robert Fisher was the judge for York and Adams Counties, and during the Confederate occupation Fisher stood up to General Early to prevent him from burning the courthouse records, The judge's wife, Mary, was a nurse at the U.S. Army Hospital on Penn Common and spent a week on the Gettysburg battlefield helping the wounded.

Philip A. Small House
59 East Market Street

Philip A. Small was a prominent businessman and a member of the Committee of Safety. His mills were occupied by Confederate brigades from Virginia and Louisiana. Small's daughter, Cassandra, wrote letter chronicling this occupation from this building, which is today known as the Lafayette Club.

York County Court House
28 East Market Street

The courthouse that stood during the occupation was replaced in 1898; however, the columns, pediment, and cupola from the earlier courthouse remain. General Early made the courthouse his headquarters during the occupation, and it was in the courtroom that Early made a list of demands upon the citizens of York.

Centre Square
Intersection of George and Market Streets

Centre (Continental) Square was vastly different 145 years ago, though the Golden Swan Tavern and newly-exposed Hartman Building (formerly Futer Bros.) remain. Georgian John B. Gordon led his 1800-man strong brigade through the streets of York, and took down a 35-ft. flag that hung in the Square. After Gordon's brigade departed, General William "Extra Billy" Smith gave a humorous speech to the citizens in gathered in the Square.

Odd Fellows' Hall
102 South George Street

Known today as Washington Hall, this building served as barracks, an armory, and a back-up Army Hospital throughout the course of the Civil War.

Penn Common
West College Avenue

Today known as Penn Park, the public common housed a large Army Hospital from 1862-1865, treating over 14,000 wounded. A tablet marks the layout of the hospital, and the Soldiers & Sailors monument pays tribute to all who served during the war.

Dr. Henry Smyser House
30 South Beaver Street

Dr. Henry Smyser was a surgeon at the U.S. Army Hospital. He was familiar with war medicine, having earlier served as Physician to the Czar in the Russian Crimean War.

National House
53 West Market Street

The building of today showcases its appearance in 1863 when Early's Division occupied York.

Dr. Alexander Blair House
59 North Duke Street

Dr. Blair was the executive officer of the U.S. Army Hospital on Penn Common. Prior to the arrival of the Confederates, Blair evacuated many of the wounded to safety in Columbia, Lancaster County. Blair married Cassandra Small one year later.

William Goodridge House
123 East Philadelphia Street

Goodridge was a freed slave who became a prominent businessman and notable agent on the Underground Railroad. After John Brown's raid on Harper's Ferry, Goodridge helped the only free black to participate and escape, using his network to help Osborne Perry Anderson to safety.

There you have it, a short walking tour of Civil War sites in downtown York! The tour should take you about 90 minutes. Education and excercise: what better way to spend the July 4th holiday this year!

Posted in 19th Century City architecture

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If it is late June, it must be time for Patriot Days. When the event was first envisioned five years ago, it was to showcase three periods in York history: Revolutionary War, Civil War, and World War II. The event, however, emerged as a Civil War only event.

While this year's Fifth Annual Patriot Days is primarily focused on the Civil War, Colonial taverns and Colonial living history will also join the Victorian and Civil War activities.

Tonight a Civil War Roundtable will be held at the York County Heritage Trust's Historical Society Museum at 250 East Market Street. The event begins at 7 p.m., and I'm told that the discussions of the 30+ people who attend monthly can be quite lively. One of tonight's topics sure promises some divergent opinions: Did York surrender?

Tomorrow night, three old favorites return: Victorian / Civil War Celebrity Tea, "The Confederate Occupation of York: A Drama," and Civil War walking tours of York. The tea and dance begins at 6:00 p.m., and will include light refreshments, performance of the Victorian Dance Ensemble, and music by the Susquehanna Travelers. The Drama follows the tea, and includes such characters as General Jubal Early, General John Gordon, General "Extra Billy" Smith, Col. Clement Evans, Arthur B. Farquhar, Cassandra Small, and Mary Fisher. Candlelight tours begin around 7:45. All Thursday activities will be at the Historical Society Museum, 250 East Market Street.

Friday evening the focus is on taverns and beer. York tavern history walking tours begin at 5:30 p.m., with the annual Micro Brew Fest at the Agricultural and Industrial Museum, West Princess Street, beginning at 7 p.m.

Saturday is a day of living history. Colonial living history at the Colonial Complex on West Market Street will include a Conestoga wagon, tours of the Gates House, Plough Tavern, and Colonial Court House, reenactment of the infamous Reverend Batwell trial, firing demonstrations, Colonial dances and games, cooking, and more. Civil War and Victorian living history can be found at the Bonham House and Martin Library's "Brownstone" on East Market Street. The 38th Georgian, 87th Pennsylvania, General Gordon's headquarters, and Civil War medicine demonstration will be at the Bonham House yard, and the house will be open for tours. Entertainment will be provided by the Barnstormers, R/C Cloggers, and Matthew Dodd's Songs of the Civil War. A Victorian classroom will be set up at the Brownstown across the street. And performances, living history, and a family scavenger hunt will be presented at the Historical Society Museum at 250 East Market Street.

It's a busy week with a lot to see. Some events are free, and some have a cost, with proceeds benefiting the York County Heritage Trust. Visit www.yorkheritage.org for more information, and call the Heritage Trust at 717-848-1587 for more information or to purchase tickets for the Victorian Tea, walking tours, or Micro Brew Fest.

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Three historic buildings in York City have been recognized by the Green Building Association of Central Pennsylvania, an organization whose mission is “promote environmentally responsible design, planning, construction, and operation of the built environment through education, outreach and networking.”

The Greenway Tech Centre, an adaptive reuse of the former Eishenlohr Cigar Factory on South George Street, received the Overall Excellence award in the 2008 Design Competition. The building is owned by Crispus Attucks Association and NuTec Design was the architect for the renovation.

The renovation and conversion of the former York County Court House into the York County Administrative Center was also recognized, winning the Energy & Atmosphere Award. Owned by the County of York, the renovation was designed by NuTec Design.

Martin Library, which recently underwent a major renovation and expansion, was acknowledged with a Sustainable Sites Award. LSC Design was the architect for the project.

Of the seven awards, three were for York projects. And while the design awards competition is not specifically for existing or historic buildings, all three local projects were within historic buildings.

For a complete list of winners, view the Green Building Association’s Web site: http://www.gbacpa.org/Resources/News/Article.asp?News_ID=271

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Our friends at Historic York recently launched an initiative to catalog the places that matter in York County. “The Place Matters” is the theme of Preservation Month, a program of the National Trust for Historic Preservation. Residents are encouraged to photograph the places that matter to them, and send the photos to Historic York, Inc. The places can be buildings or sites, and a sign is available for downloading from the organization’s Web site. Many people have photographed themselves standing in front of the places that matter, holding the sign. For information and to see which places have been submitted thus far, visit Historic York’s Web site at www.historicyork.org.

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