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My last blog post, Ode to Oriels, included a photo of a decorative corbel featuring the head of a woman. While this is one of the most distinctive examples of architectural ornamentation in York City, it certainly isn't the only one inspired by a living, or mythological, being.

When I give walking tours of the downtown, I like to say that you just never know when you're being watched. So here are several more examples, in no particular order.

Do you know where they are located? The answers appear at the bottom.

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And now for the answers...

1. This bear is located on the southwest quadrant of Continental Square on the Rupp Building. A shield features the name D.A. Rupp, for the businessman who constructed the building, and the date 1892, which signifies when it was constructed.

2. The Goodwill Fire Company on East Market Street featured a wolf as its mascot. Other station emblems included an owl (Rex & Laurel) and deer (Rescue).

3. The Bard of Avon, William Shakespeare (or Shakespear, as spelled here), is located on the former Central Elementary School building on West King Street, today home to the York City Police.

4. Another fire company mascot - in this case the lion was the mascot of Royal Fire Company on West Market Street. Today the building is home to the Fire Museum of York County.

5. This patriotic relief is of an eagle with its wings spread open. You'll find it on the northeast quadrant of Continental Square on the building that was constructed for the First National Bank.

6. This gargoyle is located on Calvary United Methodist Church on West Market Street. A gargoyle, by definition, is a carved stone figure that conveys water from the roof and away from a building - essentially a decorative spout.

7. This scary-looking creature is located on the home of architect J.A. Dempwolf at 701 South George Street. This is actually a prominent datestone on the front façade and signifying a date of construction of 1886.

8. This decorative relief appears on the front gable of J.A. Dempwolf's home. It has been identified as Old Man Winter.

9. Another carved corbel - a head under the oriel at 149 East Market Street.

10. This intense lion head is located on the spouting at the William Goodridge House at 123 East Philadelphia Street - a building which also happened to be the home of prominent architect Reinhardt Dempwolf.

11. The former Milton Martin house on East Market Street, today home to Menges, McLaughlin, Kalasnik, features two of these mythical chimeras, which appear to have a the head of a female lion, wings, and the body of neither. It is crouched behind a cross-shaped shield.

12. The octagonal tower of the former post office building at the intersection of West Philadelphia and North Beaver Streets features several of these gargoyles.

13. You'll also find several grotesques on the old post office building.

14. You have probably passed by this lion's head countless times, but have you noticed it? The lion is part of the water fountain in front of the former York County Court House on East Market Street, which is today a county government office building. There are lion heads inside the building, too.

15. This high relief ornamentation serves as the terminus of a decorative bracket on the York Gas Company building on West Market Street. Note all the ornamentation around the woman's head - a scroll bracket, wreath, egg-and-dart molding, and acanthus leaf.

16. This head is located on a building on the 100-block of South George Street, across from the Sovereign Bank building (or as long-time Yorkers know it, York Federal). It appears to be the likeness of a tragedy theater mask.

17. So it would make sense that the other head on this building would be the comedy theater mask, right? That is not the case. The second head is of a male with a distinctive handlebar moustache.

18. This fantastic head is located on the tower of Trinity United Methodist Church on East King Street. One projects from each of the four corners.

How many did you get right? Are there others that I missed? Add a comment, or send in a photo and I'll post it.

And remember, the buildings of York are watching you!

Ode to Oriels

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When I've given presentations about local architecture, or led walking tours of the downtown, I've often been asked two questions. First, is there a particular architectural style that "defines" York? Second, what is the most common architectural feature on local buildings?

My answer to the first is Colonial Revival. Because of our Revolutionary War history, York has been embracing the colonial era for well over a century. This is evidenced by the preponderance of Colonial Revival homes constructed in early 20th century neighborhoods as well as the commercial and domestic architecture still being built today.

My answer to the second question is oriels.

Frequently I'm greeted by confused expressions, as minds begin to think about black and orange birds or a certain professional baseball team to the south.

An oriel is a projecting bay window that does not extend to the ground. In the late 19th century, York's architects and builders became quite enamored with them.

The word "oriel" derives from the Latin term oriolum, and Old French oriol, which both refer to a porch.

Oriel windows are cantilevered or corbelled out from the main façade of a building. A corbel is a piece of stone or brick that juts out from a building to carry weight. In the image above, the dark green oriel on the far right is cantilevered (weight supported on one end) while the light colored oriel immediately to its left is corbelled.

Architecturally, oriels were found in Gothic and Tudor architecture, as well as their subsequent revivals. Oriels were also found on Chateauesque buildings. Locally, York City features many blocks of Queen Anne rowhomes embellished with oriel windows.

Not only does this architectural feature create more space on the interior, it also allows more light into a building than a traditional bay window. Some oriels sit atop decorative corbels while others rest upon sculptured elements - like this woman's head on South Beaver Street. Local legend tells the story of builders who were so inspired by the beauty of a neighbor, who would sit on her front stoop every morning and let her long, flowing hair dry, that they created her likeness under the oriel of the house they were building.

Oriels add character to buildings. Some feature sunburst or molded patterns on their undersides while others are colorfully painted to stand out. A lovely example of Victorian oriels can be found on Locust Street. While most windows have clear glass, there are also several examples of decorative leaded glass in oriels around town.

So there you have it: my ode to oriels. The next time you are in York City, be sure to pay attention to the buildings around you. Find the oriels, and then look underneath to see if any decorative elements are present. Better yet, park your car and take a walk - York's treasures aren't buried, they are readily visible to anyone who takes the time to look for them!

Discovering Dempwolf

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Historic York, Inc. has announced plans for an upcoming event, Discovering Dempwolf. The J.A. Dempwolf firm was the most prolific and successful architectural practice in York County history, designing over 500 buildings during the 50 years that John Augustus Dempwolf was at the helm. Landmark buildings like York's Central Market House and Gettysburg College's Glatfelter Hall were designed by J.A. and brother Reinhardt Dempwolf, along with a talented staff of young architects who learned the professional under Dempwolf's tutelage.

This year I have the privilege of serving as president of Historic York, Inc.'s board of directors. As you may know, I have a passion for historic buildings and thus I'm personally excited about his year's event. But this is also a very important event for Historic York. Like most non-profit organizations out there, HYI has had a tough year. We continue to provide preservation consulting services and operate the Architectural Warehouse retail store. We press forward with our mission of preservation through education, ownership of the historic Schultz House, and a current archeological dig to learn more about the property and possibly connect it with the Revolutionary War POW camp known as Camp Security. This event is the largest fundraising event we do, and it couldn't come at a more critical time. We've re-energized our membership efforts, refocused our marketing, and taken a lot of exciting steps this year: but we're also counting on this event to be a big success, because at the end of the day we have to think about the bottom line!

That stated, I'm sure that you'll want to participate because it really is a cool event! The Discovering Dempwolf event has three components:

Discovering Dempwolf Reception
Friday, October 9, 2009
York County Heritage Trust, 250 East Market Street, York
7 p.m. to 9 p.m.

This is the opening reception for the weekend. Displays will include an exhibit on Dempwolf's work as well as a display of the featured Dempwolf-designed properties that will be open later that weekend. Ken Frew, author of the upcoming book, Building Harrisburg, will speak briefly about Dempwolf's influence in Harrisburg (did you know that he was the architect for the Pennsylvania Lunatic Hospital, aka state hospital, for over 20 years?), and I'll speak about Dempwolf's work in York and Adams counties (several prominent buildings on the campus of Gettysburg College and the Lutheran Seminary were designed by the Dempwolf firm). Appetizers, wine, beer, great company and a perfect location will make this a wonderful event. Tickets are $30 and can be purchased by calling Historic York, Inc. at 717-843-0320.

Discovering Dempwolf Downtown Walking Tour
Saturday, October 10, 2009
Downtown York
10 a.m. to 12 p.m.

Architect Mark Shermeyer will lead a walking tour that features prominent Dempwolf-designed buildings in downtown York - department stores, town houses, office buildings, and more. Mark authored an often-referenced study of the Dempwolf Public Schools and is recognized as a local expert on the Dempwolf architectural practice. For more information and to reserve tickets, contact Historic York, Inc. at 717-843-0320.

Discovering Dempwolf Tour
Sunday, October 11, 2009
Greater York Area
12 p.m. to 5 p.m.

Historic York's annual tour, this year dedicated to properties designed by the Dempwolf practice. Eleven unique buildings that feature a diverse array of architectural styles will be part of the tour. How cool is this year's tour? How about J.A Dempwolf's own house? Or the ever-popular Hahn Home? Or the mansion where John Philip Sousa co-wrote "The White Rose March" and "The Fairy of the Codorus"? Or the home of the man who created Martin Carriage Works, Guardian Trust, and left money to start the Martin Library? Or Dempwolf's last major church - with a nave that was designed as an upside-down ship? Or even the grand Boxhill and formal European-inspired gardens?

This year's properties include:

John C. Schmidt House
900 South George Street
Currently being renovated for condominiums

Hahn Home
863 South George Street
Kuhner Funeral Home

J.A. Dempwolf Residence
701 South George Street
Private Residence

C.C. Frick House (aka, "White House")
100 West Springettsbury Avenue
Private Residence

Noss House
142 East Springettsbury Avenue
Private Residence

Bayler Residence
29 North Queen Street
Private offices

Nathan Lehmayer Property
34 North Queen Street
Attorneys' offices

Milton D. Martin House
145 East Market Street
Attorneys' offices

Prospect Hill Cemetery "Gatehouse"
700 North George Street
Cemetery Offices

Union Lutheran Church
408 West Market Street
Historic Church

Boxhill Mansion
1190 Regents' Glen Blvd.
Regents' Glen Country Club

Yesterday I had a chance to review the final draft of the event guidebook, and I think that it alone is worth the cost of admission! In addition to profiles of the eleven featured properties you'll find a list of over 50 buildings in the region designed by the Dempwolf practice - so you can conduct your own Dempwolf driving tour anytime!

Tickets may be purchased / reserved by calling Historic York at 717-843-0320 or sending an e-mail to info@historicyork.org. Cost per ticket is $15, and they may also be purchased the day of the tour at Kuhner Funeral Home, 863 South George Street, or Boxhill, 1190 Regents' Glen Blvd.

A discount combination ticket including the reception and Sunday tour is also available for a cost of $40 if purchased prior to October 1.

Discovering Dempwolf Doll House

Historic York, Inc. is also holding a "Dempwolf Doll House" raffle - your chance to own a 1/12 scale house reminiscent of Dempwolf's domestic designs in the 1890s and early 1900s. The doll house is valued at $1500 and tickets cost $10 each.

The firm of J.A. Dempwolf was one of the most significant architectural practices in the region. J.A. was the founder of the local chapter of the American Institute of Architects, which happens to be celebrating its 100th anniversary this year. I've had the opportunity to speak recently with a number of architects and preservationists in Central PA, and I'm seeing a very high level of interest in Historic York's Discovering Dempwolf weekend. I'm personally very excited about it because it showcases many wonderful buildings that aren't often associated with Dempwolf. It is also a great opportunity to educate the community about the Dempwolf family and their success as architects.

Whether or not you are able to attend any or all of the events, please think about people you know who may be interested, or organizations with which you are involved, and forward this e-mail to them.

I hope to see you at the events - and we can all discover the Dempwolf firm together!

P.S. Here's another date for your calendar: Friday, October 23. In the past I've led haunted history and ghost tours for Main Street York, Downtown Inc, Crispus Attucks, and the Heritage Trust. This year I'm leading a "Spooky York" tour in downtown York with 100% of the proceeds going to Historic York. There will be one tour ONLY beginning at 7:00 p.m. and ending at the York Emporium for refreshments and to learn about a recent paranormal investigation of the property. More info to follow, but you can reserve your tickets now ($10 adult / $5 child) by calling Historic York at 717-843-0320 or e-mailing info@historicyork.org.

In 1882, a new school house, known as the D. K. Noell School, was constructed and named for a member of the school board. The eight-room school house was built of brick, but had major structural issues as well as problems with the chimney and furnaces, among other issues.

Eighteen years after it was built, the building was demolished and a new D. K. Noell School rose in its place. Located on East College Avenue at Susquehanna Avenue, the attractive Renaissance Revival building contained "six school rooms and two class rooms" on each floor, according to a report published the year it was constructed. The building still stands today, and appears to be three full stories; however, the original account viewed the building differently: "On account of conditions in the grade of the lot, the basement is kept practically out of the ground which not only secures excellent light, and affords superior furnace and toilet rooms but also gives the building the appearance of a three story structure; an effect which adds much to its impressiveness."

The base of the building, as well as steps and window sills, were all constructed of granite while the majority of the building was built with red pressed brick from the York Shale Brick Company. Brownstone trim was also employed.

The building was designed by the firm of Hamme and Leber, led by two notable architects who studied under the tutelage of J. A. Dempwolf before striking out on their own at the turn of the 20th century.

How many architectural styles are present in York County?

For a short primer on 40 styles and sub-styles of local historic architecture, play the video below, which features over 90 county buildings.


On Saturday, approximately 70 photo enthusiasts met on Continental Square in downtown York to photograph the White Rose City. It was the third photowalk organized by Andy Smith, Visual Realia, who also organized similar walks in Gettysburg and Harrisburg. For many, it was the first time walking downtown York with camera in hand. For others, it was a good excuse to enjoy the June weather and take in some sights.

The equipment they brought with them ranged from camera cell phones and small point-and-shoot digital cameras to 35-mm digital SLR cameras with multiple lenses and tripods in tow.

The day began with a group photo on the steps of the former York County Court House, and then everyone proceeded to the York Water Company to photograph the stunning interior. It was the first of many treats for the photowalkers. After leaving the water company building, many proceeded to the David Small House (known by many as simply "the brownstone"), where Martin Library's Fran Keller had the building opened as part of the York Patriot Days celebration. Participants photographed the historic parlor, toured the nearby Bonham House, and photographed the architectural details and streetscapes of York.

On Philadelphia Street, everyone was treated to an appearance of freed slave turned businessman turned Underground Railroad agent William C. Goodridge, portrayed by Lee Smallwood. Lee gave an overview of Goodridge's life, and invited participants to stop by the courtyard to the rear of the Goodridge Freedom House, which was also open as part of Patriot Days.

From there, the walk continued past the Strand-Capitol, and into Central Market House for a brief stop. By this time the group of 70 had spread out on multiple blocks, all slowly making their way to the Colonial Complex of the York County Heritage Trust. Colonial-era living historians provided more shooting opportunities for the shutterbugs.

Back on Continental Square, I talked with a gentleman from Maryland who came to York specifically for the photowalk. He told me that he had driven through York many times before, but had never looked at it through the lens of a camera. "What wonderful architectural treasures, York has" he told me. Though he had to depart, he promised that he'd return, camera in hand: "There's a lot more here that I'd love to photograph," he said.

According to an e-mail from Andy Smith, photowalkers came from Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virginia, New Jersey, and Washington, D.C.

For information about the photowalk, visit Visual Realia: http://www.visualrealia.com/VR_Photowalks/Home.html.

Participants are also uploading their photos to a Flickr page. Check out their fabulous work at: http://www.flickr.com/groups/yorkphotowalk/.

Many people I've spoken with over the years have commented about photos I've taken in downtown York. "How did you take a photo without any cars?" "How come your photos look better than the real thing?" "Where is the bear staring out over the Square?" "Why didn't you take a picture of (fill in the blank)?" And, of course, "I take better pictures than you!"

If you are looking for tips and tricks, are interested in meeting new people who share your love of photography, or simply have been looking for an excuse to head downtown with your camera, look no further.

This Saturday, the York Photowalk will be held, following on the heels of successful Gettysburg and Harrisburg photowalks. Come out with your camera - as new-fangled or old-fashioned as you like - and walk through the streets of downtown York with fellow photography enthusiasts.

Photowalkers will be meeting on Continental Square at 10 a.m., and following a route that includes Market and Philadelphia Streets between Pershing Avenue to the West and Pine Street to the East.

Having taken thousands of photos (literally) of downtown York over the years for such books as York's Historic Architecture, York: America's Historic Crossroads, Civil War Walking Tour of York, PA, and various publications and guides, I'm still excited to go downtown with my camera. There's always something to photograph: the energy of Central Market House, the architectural details that people pass by every day without ever noticing, the picturesque places that make York such a unique community. This Saturday will be no exception - the York County Heritage Trust will be holding its annual Patriot Days event, with living historians out in force, and I just learned that a prominent local landmark will be opening its interior for photography.

I'll be there, happy to help answer your history, architecture, or photography questions. (As well as the inevitable ghost question: "Is this building haunted?")

To learn more, follow this link:

http://www.visualrealia.com/VR_Photowalks/Home.html

See you on Saturday!


Grazr



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