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A Tale of Three Domes

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Wikipedia defines a dome as "a structural element of architecture that resembles the hollow upper half of a sphere."

If you happen to be a resident of York, Lancaster or Harrisburg, a dome is a defining feature of your skyline. Three distinctly different domes top three important governmental buildings in these communities.

The Lancaster County Court House, which was constructed in 1854 and expanded in 1898, features the oldest of the domes. Resting on twelve columns, the copper dome includes four clock faces, a 1,034 pound bell, and a bronze statue of justice added in 1929. The original statue of justice was carved of wood.

While the design of the Classical Revival building was inspired by the Tennessee State Capitol, I am unsure which building, if any, provided design inspiration for the dome. The architect for the original portion of the courthouse was Samuel Sloan, a noted 19th century Philadelphia architect who published several successful books on architecture.

The York County Court House was designed by York's most prominent architect, J.A. Dempwolf, and constructed in 1898-1899. The project began as an expansion to an earlier courthouse, but essentially resulted in a totally new building. Dempwolf's design included three domes, with the main central dome rising to a height of 155-feet above street level.

The design inspiration for the domes of the Beaux-Arts York County Court House was the duomo, or cathedral, in Florence, Italy. All three domes are steel framed and clad in hard burned terra cotta in a reddish-orange color. The smaller domes feature cupolas while the main dome is crowned with a more distinctive cupola with bell - the very same cupola that stood atop the previous courthouse, which was built in 1841. The main dome also features paired columns and four illuminated clock faces.

The "newest" of the three domes is the one that stands atop the Pennsylvania State Capitol Building in Harrisburg. The building was constructed between 1902 and 1906 in the Beaux-Arts style with heavy Italian Renaissance influence. Joseph Huston was the project architect, and he competed in a design competition to win the commission. In 1898, Huston toured Europe with his brother; unfortunately, his brother became quite ill from a ruptured appendix, and he spent several weeks in a hospital in Rome. While his brother recuperated, Huston toured Rome and sketched the notable buildings, including St. Peter's Basilica - this building would become his inspiration for design of the Pennsylvania State Capitol.

The main dome of the building draws heavy influence from St. Peter's Basilica. The massive dome weighs 52-million pounds and stands 254 feet above the first floor. The dome features paired Corinthian columns and the gilded Statue of the Commonwealth crowns the dome. The familiar green roof of the dome is actually red clay terra-cotta tile, covered with a green glaze. Smaller domes, approximately 1/3 the size of the main dome, stand atop the wings of the Capitol Building.

Perhaps the most famous dome in the United States is that of the U.S. Capitol Building in Washington, DC. Like Dempwolf and Huston, the architect of the dome (Thomas Walter, who designed the county courthouse in West Chester) drew inspiration from European cathedrals, in this case the domes of St. Paul's Cathedral in London, St. Peter's Basilica in Rome, and the Pantheon in Paris.

Domes are a distinctive architectural feature, and central Pennsylvania skylines are made more attractive by their presence.

For more information on domes and cupolas, and towers and turrets, click here.

I recently received an e-mail from someone who had just purchased the book York's Historic Architecture. She had not yet read the book, but was intrigued by the cover, a photo of Gethsemane Hall on North Beaver Street. Her husband thought the building was perhaps the Lancaster County Prison, because he didn't think there was a building like that in York.

Gethsemane Hall was built by the local Freemasons after they purchased the former post office building at the intersection of West Philadelphia and North Beaver Streets. But Gethsemane Hall was not York's first castle.

Where today stands a vacant 100-year old jail on Chestnut Street once stood another castle, which was built as the York County Jail in 1854. It was designed by local architect Edward Haviland, who was the son of noted Philadelphia architect John Haviland. John Haviland is perhaps best known as architect of the Eastern State Penitentiary in Philadelphia, and Edward became a noted prison architect in the mid 19th century, also designing jails in Cambria, Carbon, Lycoming, Cumberland, Northampton, and Blair counties, among others.

This sandstone and blue limestone building was constructed by Jacob Gotwalt and opened in 1855. The Norman-influenced design was successfully employed by both Edward Haviland and his father. Unfortunately, it was not large enough to keep up with York's expanding population, resulting in its demolition in the early 20th century. The building that stands today was the replacement prison, and it was designed by architect B.F. Willis and constructed in 1906.

Of note, the Lancaster Prison "castle" was also designed by John Haviland. A picture of it can be viewed here.

A recent query on the York Town Square blog asked about the location of York's first town hall, which is perhaps a mystery (though many early town meetings were held in the first Court House in Centre Square).

Most of us are familiar with the current York City Hall, which stands along West King Street and was constructed in 1941 in celebration of York's 200th anniversary.

Only the long-time Yorkers, however, can identify where the prior city hall was located. The building in this postcard no longer stands. However, it was at one time a carriage house along South Duke Street. After being converted into a city hall, it was later expanded. Below is a brief description from my book, Postcard History Series: York:

The Guardian Trust Company was incorporated in 1903 and purchased property at the southeast corner of Market and Duke Streets for use as a bank. To the rear of the property stood a large stable, which was enlarged for use as City Hall. Subsequently, Guardian Trust purchased an adjacent property and expanded City Hall.

Centre Square, 1777

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When the Second Continental Congress arrived in York in September 1777, they found a sleepy frontier town in which most residents spoke German. Philadelphia it was not. Lodging became an immediate issue, as there were but 22 taverns and about 300 houses in York Town. Members of Congress did not travel alone, of course – they brought with them staff members to assist with the governing of the young nation. Many delegates began their time in York in overcrowded taverns, until such time that they could arrange for living quarters, frequently in private homes.

In some cases, delegates were able to rent a home, and perhaps share it with other delegates. Few patriots actually stayed in York all nine months that Congress met here. Many came and went and came and went, with the president of Continental Congress serving as the “glue” that held the body together.

When they arrived here, John Hancock was president; however, he resigned from Congress on October 31 and returned to his home in Massachusetts. Cousins John and Samuel Adams stayed in York for the first five weeks, then departed for Massachusetts – John would later travel to France while Samuel eventually returned to York in the final weeks that Congress met here.

(For a larger image, click here: http://scottbutcher.smugmug.com/photos/239128351-XL.jpg )

Throughout York’s tenure as colonial capital, the Square was abuzz with activity. Congress met in the County Court House, which by now had stood in Centre Square for over 20 years. A home on the northeastern quadrant of the Square served as the U.S. Treasury. Archibald McClean, owner of the building, was a surveyor and ardent patriot. On the southeastern quadrant stood Gottleib Ziegle’s tavern, which most likely hosted several delegates. Next door stood a building that served as an armory. Across George Street on the southwestern quadrant stood a building leased by delegate Daniel Roberdeau. According to early local histories, Roberdeau hosted John Adams and Samuel Adams, among other delegates. The Committee on Foreign Affairs, of which Thomas Paine served as Secretary, also met in this building.

The 1898 York County Court House is making news again, but not for any notorious trial. A contingent representing York County recently returned from San Antonio, TX and the American Public Works Association national conference. They were there to accept an award for the renovation of the courthouse and conversion into the York County Administrative Center. The project was recognized as a “Public Works Project of the Year” in the Historic Renovation category for projects in the $10 million to $100 million range. The award application was prepared by project architect NuTec Design Associates, Inc. on behalf of the County, contractor Wohlson Construction, and local chapter of the American Public Works Association.

This award focuses a national spotlight on York and the efforts of many to combine York’s historic architecture with the needs of a modern society and vibrant community.

Recent news reports have noted that the United States Postal Service will be vacating their facility on South George Street. York City government has expressed an interest to acquire the building and renovate it for use as a new City Hall. But the building on South George Street is not the only one downtown to have housed the Post Office. At the intersection of West Philadelphia and North Beaver streets a prominent red-brick Romanesque building stands on the northeast corner. Today, many people know it as the Lighthouse Youth Center. Others remember when it was a Masonic Temple. The reality, however, is that it was actually constructed by the federal government for use as a Post Office and government office building.

From “Postcard History Series: York”:

Constructed in 1895 on the northeast corner of Philadelphia and Beaver Streets, the “Federal Building” was built for a cost of $80,000. In addition to housing the Post Office, the United States Revenue Department was located on the second floor. Prior to the erection of this building, the York Post Office had been located at nine different sites.

Grazr



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